It's not often that I come across any really terrific enameled figures in superb condition but the first set below was a definite exception. These highly desireable Russian Dancers are by Hess-Appel Inc., New York, of which the foundation year is unknown. They emerged from obscurity in 1943 with these two items designed and patented by Hess and presented conspicuously in "WWD", July 30, 1943. The company also owned the rights of the mark "Jolle" that appears on some articles and was still present in the 1950's.*
Images below depict a variety of figural people executed in diverse materials that were popular at the time from the Victorian era to the present.
1944 Hess-Appel Russian kosak dancers. These beautifully executed lively figures are clad in red, green and yellow enamel, gold plating and clear rhinestone costumes and head gear depicting a couple of Russian kosak dancers. Both marked STERLING and PAT D110202, the number assigned to the patent application. Patents reproduced with the enlarged view. *[See "A Tribute to America" by Brunialti and Brunialti, page 220.]
1941 Rice-Weiner Chinese Water Boy Pin. A variation(?) of the Rice-Weiner 1941 Chinese Water Boy pin designed by Louis C. Mark with gold-plated base metal, shirt enameled in shades of green, clear pave set rhinestone shorts and Venetian glass bead water jug and "fish". Some wear to enameling on shirt and darkening to brass cap on fish. width: 3-1/8", length: 3". Patent reproduced with enlarged view. *[See "American Costume Jewelry" by Brunialti and Brunialti, pp. 241.]
1949 Trifari Pom Pom and Tom Tom. Each of these adorable 1949 rhodium plated base metal rag doll pins has sapphire blue molded glass for bodies and is accentuated with pave set clear round rhinestones. Both marked Trifari with crown; she with DES. PAT. NO. 153551, he with DES. PAT. NO. 153552. [See "American Costume Jewely" by Brunialti and Brunialti, pp. 119-20, Pom Pom and Tom Tom, designer Alfred Philippe, dated 1949.] She: condition: excellent; he: condition: very good, two small chips on one ridge of molding on left leg. each: width: 1-1/8", height: 1-5/8"
c. 1940's Sterling Silver Sailor Pin. Ship shape he is! Darling c. 1940's sterling sailor pin considered to be "sweetheart jewelry" in that era when the wearer thought of her loved one while awaiting his return home. Signed URISCRAFT STERLING on reverse. Safety catch. length: 1-5/8", width: 5/8"
c. 1940's Sterling Silver Tragedy and Comedy Earrings. Should I laugh or should I cry? This great pair of screwback earrings can't solve that dilemna but hopefully they will make you smile when you wear them. Signed DANECRAFT STERLING on screw mechanism. [Slight discoloration to some surface area.] length: 1-1/8", width: 11/16"
1910 to 1919 A. Schöllkopf of Pforzheim, Germany Reverse Carved Pendant Necklace. Simply divine. This gorgeous pale citrine elongated faceted glass stone is reverse carved with an incredible female figure with a basket of fruit in one arm and holding the billowing drape of her dress in the other. What makes this carving so intriguing and spectacular is that when viewing the female's lower body from the front it is more concealed with the folds of her dress than when viewing it from the back. The glass stone is bezel set in a sterling silver frame studded with marcasites and hangs from a period sterling chain. It is signed on the reverse with an A superimposed with an S [a mark used by A. Schöllkopf of Pforzheim, Germany from 1910 to 1919] 935 GERMANY STERLING. chain length: 22"; pendant (inc bale): width: 1-1/4", length: 2"
Victorian Shell Cameo Pin/Pendant of Diana Off to the Hunt. Rare, spectacular late 1800's cornelian shell cameo of the Greek Goddess Diana in her chariot being pulled by two nymphs. The detail is superb and hopefully captured in the multiple views of this outstanding cameo. It is set in a 14 karat frame. [I think the frame is newer than the actual cameo.] [There are three minor hair lines on the reverse. They do not penetrate the front of the cameo. They are somewhat visible in the back view.] The cameo itself is 1-3/4" wide x 1-5/8" high. This is unusual in that most cameos have a longer vertical dimension than horizontal one. framed width: 2-1/4", height: 1-11/16" side view, top view, bottom view, front view
1860 to 1880 Victorian Lava Cameo of Hecate, Greek Triple Goddess of the Crossroads. This fabulous antique mid-Victorian lava cameo is beautifully carved in high relief with incredible detail. This is a rare rendering of Hecate, the triple Goddess of the Crossroads. In Greece, Hecate was one of the many names for the original feminine trinity ruling Heaven, Earth and the Underworld. In Roman mythology, Hekate was known as Trivia (the goddess of crossroads).
French Purse with Porcelain Insets.Superb unused hand made vintage French purse covered in sparkling tiny black glass seed beads. Within the brass border of the gorgeous frame on this bag on three sides runs a double row of twisted clear seed beads with gold centers. The front of the spring tension lift clasp has an undulating curved border. Above each arc of the border is a bezel set hand painted porcelain oval of a courting scene each surrounded by mini faux pearls and clear glass seed beads. The top of the clasp has an undulating row of clear seed beads with an inner row of black seed beads defining arcs of clear seed beads with faux pearl centers. The black satin interior is roomy with two pockets and holds the original mirror still wrapped and a small change purse. Interor is marked MADE IN FRANCE HAND MADE and Lucienne Offenthal 24. RUE DE LA PAIX. This bag will always be stylish at any event. A holiday must! width: 8-1/4", height: 6-1/8"
Vintage Mother of Pearl Pendant Necklace. Precious MOP two-sided pendant with a single large cherubic figure on one side and two smaller identical figures on the reverse. [One side of the disc is yellower than the other which is natural to the piece. It is not discolored.] Gold filled chain is marked Danecraft 1/20 12 KT G.T. chain length: 24-1/2"; pendant: diameter: 1-1/2"
Art Nouveau Repousse Silver Brooch of Female with Flowers. Beautiful 1900 to 1910 die struck silver brooch of woman's profile with a flower in her hand encircled with flowing hair with flowers at 12 and 6 o'clock. c-catch. [Minor loss of silver on high points of hair.] length: 2", width: 1-5/8"
Egyptian Revival Brass & Celluloid Belt. Fabulous c. 1920's Egyptian Revival belt with alternating links in celluloid and brass. The brass links are machine stamped with hyroglyphics and a kneeling and standing Egyptian figure. Hook closure. length: 31", width: 1"
Vintage 14 Karat Rose Gold Bullfighter Charm. Incredible detail in the toreador's pants and jacket as well as the bull he's trying to "charm". This unique charm is 9.1 grams of 14 karat rose gold on a bale ready to add to your bracelet or wear as a pendant. Marked 14K with a maker's mark in a heart (unknown). height: 1-1/16", width: 7/8"
Native American Indian Zuni Knife Wing Dancer Bolo Tie. This vintage Zuni Knife Wing Dancer is made of a pewter-colored metal inlayed with coral for eyes and oyster shell for face; costume inlayed with onyx, coral and turquoise and slides on a braided tan and black leather bolo. bolo length: 33"; dancer: width: 2-1/8", length: 2-3/8"
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